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Friday, April 8, 2016

Camino 2016: Via de La Plata - Day 10 - Carcaboso to Oliva de Placencia

Another good night in the albergue. Not a sound from any one of he three of us! Breakfast had been set out the night before and we had toast, orange juice, coffee and I had a joghurt and a banana I had bought the night before.
We set off together at about 8:00 am as it got light. Found the way quite easily although there were no arrows in the village. Just follow the compas to north and follow it is a rule that works well for this Camino. We were almost immediately on farm roads gently uphill. Today we would climb about 200 meters so not bad.
We went past farms just starting work for the day. Here is a typical small farm with cattle and chickens and geese around the house.
A steady climb, across a lot lad and through the first of many gates onto a track through the fields in many so which cattle were grazing. A lot were very wet and there seemed to be a lot of springs because we would encounter a very wet area and a small stream in the middle of it, usually with stepping stones to help us cross them, but often the water was well over the stepping stones so wet feet could not be avoided. At least I had hiking poles to help balance on the stones that were not firm and would move under your feet. Also I was glad we put extra tape under the rubber pieces on the end of the poles or I am sure I would lost both the ones that are on now and the spares I carry in my backpack because the poles would sometimes try to stick in the mud,


Rather sadly we passed a calf lying on its side next to the trail which looked almost dead but it was still rolling its eyes as we passed. I think it had broken a leg and couldn't walk but there were no other cattle near at that time. We couldn't do anything for it but felt bad just walking past. The cattle that are not being milked are left to graze in huge areas which also have water and trees for them when they need it. I assume that this is where they spend the summer.
After about 2 hours we stopped for a break. I still had a half bocadillo from yesterday and a banana along with water from my platypus system. We found some rocks that had been warned by the sun. We were one French, one Dutch and me.
From time to time we could see the mountains with snow on them getting closer each day. If you look closely you can see that it is snow not clouds but I don't think (at least I hope) they are not in our path. They are certainly further east than I think we will be going.
Just as we were about to set out again 2 more peregrinos showed up. One was Dutch and the other French. Greetings all around and we all set off again through this lovely area. Often we had to go through gates making sure we closed them behind us.

There are also many thick stone walls and we have seen these for the whole Camino. My guide book says that these are probably built from stones that were originally laid by the Romans as a base for their roads which makes sense. The walls are about 2 ft thick and appear very stable. Here is one with the cows having a chat over it.
Here is one with one of the old Roman miliarios, or mile stone posts in it.

At about 11:30 we came to the turning where there is a decision to be made as to whether to continue straight ahead for another 20 km or turn off to a small village 6 km away. I had already decided that I would just go to the close albergue for tonight even though it adds a little more distance to the whole trip. 30 km/day with the very hilly terrain, rough trails and a full backpack is enough for me, and I love it!
So I set off again, now along the verge of a road, alone now, for the village of Oliva de Placentia. It was a beautiful day and I passed people busy on their farms and fields of cattle and even one of goats
After about an hour I stopped by the road for a bite to eat. I still had a banana and the rest of yesterday's bocadillo. Sorry but I am not good with selfies.
One of the farms was particularly imposing.
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Then on to the village. Before I had even found the albergue I was stopped by a women who asked me if I was looking for it. When I said yes she took me there but it was locked so she said, come with her to the "tienda", so I followed. On the way I was handed off to someone else and then we arrived at the little shop. Back to the albergue and telephone calls with someone to make sure I had a reservation. All seemed ok and back to the albergue where I was shown a room with two beds and an attached bath. Here are some pictures so you can see how we have to rough it!
And this is the living room
Even with a fireplace. The 4 Spanish people tonight who speak no other language are going to make themselves a meal but the other 3 of us - Dutch, Korean and me - will go to the "Bar Caparra" for a meal at 8:00pm. Now we are full I believe.
Well I thought the albergue was full but now 3 Germans have arrived so we must be full now. I seem to have one of the best rooms, downstairs with just 2 beds, upstairs I think the rooms have 4 or 5 beds in each and I don't know about bathrooms.anyway the old building is very nice with wooden beams and walls at least 2 feet thick. There is some carving over the front door but not even the Spanish perigrina could read it.
As is often the case in the small villages, the buildings are so close together that it is difficult to get a good picture.









2 comments:

  1. I DID catch up!!! What a wonderful experience, James! I believe that you've infected Mike. He and his brother are talking about doing this in a few years. I think that I will do what Christa did a couple back and meet them there after traveling around by car! haha!

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  2. Yes, but I want to choose the Camino path without wind or rain. Or hills.......

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