Camino 2016: Via de La Plata - Day 7 - Aldea del Cano to Caçares

Today the Camino did not show its best side. Rain all day during a 25 km stage to Caçares and is forecast to continue hard rain until this evening. The good part is that the strong wind that was supposed to accompany it did not materialize but there will not be many pictures today since I lost one iPhone this year in Costa Rica due to water getting into it and don't want to risk another. And of course with rain there is also mud! If there had to be a rain stage, today was not a bad one to choose since there was a village about halfway where I could dry off some with coffee and get something small to eat and for the second part of the day the trail followed a highway so the scenery was not special.

Left the albergue at about 7:30 after a good nights sleep, stopping at the bar next door for the usual breakfast. Rain started before dawn so full rain gear and onto the path at about 8:00. Of the 5 people in the albergue last night 2 were traveling back to Mérida and one was on a bike so just 2 leaving Aldea on foot this morning.

For the first 2 hours the rain was fairly hard so no pictures, but the trail was similar to yesterday with the Roman mile markers and the cattle in fields along the way. They are always inquisitive and look up to see who is walking past.

One of the most unusual parts of today was that it included walking across the middle of an airfield, including crossing the runway! I think it is for sports flying and with very low clouds the hangers were all closed and no aircraft to be seen, just sheep on the sideson the runway with dogs watching them and keeping them away from the runway. Fortunately the dogs left me alone and allowed me to cross! I assume there was a shepherd somewhere watching over the activities.

 

 

After about 11 km came to the village of Valdesalor where I found a café and stopped for a coffee and a snack. It was also an opportunity to dry off a bit. The people were as usual very friendly. Soon the other perigrina who left Andea shortly after me arrived, a lady from France. She also needed to dry off before setting out on the next part of today's stage.

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Soon it was time to move on, now the route followed close to the highway but mostly was on the old Roman Via de Le Plata. It was always well signed so no need to try and get the guide book out in the rain.

Came to another Roman bridge, this one had been renovated but still in use for pedestrians and animals.

 

 

Then on towards Caçares. Arriving in one of the larger cities after several days of only seeing very small towns and villages is always disconcerting and the traffic splashing water onto the sidewalks doesn't help. It was difficult to find the way to the albergue and each person I asked had another idea including a lady who called to me after I had passed her house and told me I was going the wrong way before I even asked for direction. Finally I found the tourist information office and got a map and directions but they didn't speak English, only Spanish! However the map they gave me did not survive the rain very long and soon I was back to asking people. This time I was lucky.

The old part of town is very confusing because it is on a steep hill with no two plazas on the same level but linked by steep narrow streets or stairs. I am sure it is very pretty but I was anxious to get to the albergue to change into dry clothes.

Finally found the albergue, not the one I was looking for but another one, checked in and was assigned a 2 bed room with private shower etc. I lucked out again. It is the municipal albergue and I think it is also a youth hostel but seems empty at the moment.

Showered, started to dry everything, (there is an electric heater in the room which helps) and felt new again. Had some lunch in the cafeteria here (it was about 2:30). Calculated today was 25km, the longest day yet.

Since the rain didn't look like stopping I went out to take a look at this historic town. I must have looked strange with bare feet in sandals, a poncho and a baseball cap, but I didn't care and was too busy dodging umbrellas to watch other people

First I went to the tourist office to find out about buses for tomorrow because the next albergue is closed and it would be a 40km stage to the next open one which is more than I am prepared to do. They found some information but basically told me to go to the bus station to find out exact details. That is the other side of town so I will go with what I've got and try for the 11:00 am bus to Cañaveral.

Now I went into the cathedral. It is 15/16th century. Here are some pictures. It was very crowded with Spanish tour groups.

I thought the Jesus Negro was interesting and very unusual, but good to make people think.

 

And back to the albergue for a while. At about 7:30 the rain finally stopped and the sun came out so I went out looking for supper.

Here are some views in the city after the clouds started to clear and even a little sun.

This Plaza Major, the main square

 

 

Very difficult to take decent pictures since the buildings are so close together and the alleys so narrow.Next I found a restaurant for dinner and chose the menu del dia. Green bean salad, braised lamb with French fries, flan, bread and a bottle of red wine. Very satisfying so I then made my way back to the room which I have to myself for the third day in a row!

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