Camino 2016: Via de La Plata - Day 12 - Aldeanueva del Camino to Calzadar de Béjar

Saturday April 9, 2016
The next few days will be challenging. We have several steep climbs and descents between Aldeanueva and Calzada de Béjar.
Here is a map showing the climbs and descents for the next few days.

Another great day! We have now reached the mountains that we have had on the horizon almost since day 1 and it was a beautiful walk through them to this remote albergue in a small village, population 84, at 789 meters elevation (2,600 ft). Today there was a couple from Austria walking the same route and we agreed it looked like the Alps. The first set of climbs and descents on the map above is now behind us and they were not quite as challenging as they look, but I am sure that is partly because I have now been walking every day for 9 days so I have built up more fitness and my body is better accustomed to the daily exercise.
But today's events and experiences - all positive as usual. Can only be so positive with such incredible scenery and such helpful people everywhere.
I set out at about 7:15 and was soon out of the village. The first part of today was mostly along the side of a highway and on the shady side of the mountain so the sun took a very long time to bring any warmth to the path. It was about 42°F and the north wind was still blowing directly at us. It was about 10 km to the first town and the sun did not reach me for the whole 2.5 hrs but it was uphill and that kept me warm enough. It is Saturday so the traffic on the road was very light in the early morning.

When I reached the town of Baños de Montemayor I was glad to find a café open for a café con leche and a snack before heading out again. Ruta 66 was a strange name for a café in the Spanish mountains

From here on the path started to climb steeply. First it was on one of the ancient Roman roads, still looking as it would have when it was built 2,000 years ago. The gradient was steep but not uncomfortably so, while the new road with the traffic was nearby climbing with a number of S bends. Perhaps they need the ancient roman engineers to assist with the road planning today.

Past a drinking station

Looking back over the town of Baños de Montemayor which by now was in the sun.the Romans had built baths here to use the hot springs that come out here and they are still in use. It would have been nice to take advantage of the opportunity but that would have taken half a day to really enjoy it so I kept walking after seeing the "old people" going in for their rheumatism treatments etc.

Once we completed the climb we came to a plateau with a small village and the path became flatter. This led along a Cañada (see yesterday's blog for details) similar to the ones we had previously seen. There were some nice views of the valley below

Now we are over the highest point of the pass we can look down to the north.

Then a step descent and across a Roman bridge across the river at the bottom of the valley. I could not get a good picture of it from the side due to fences.

Then a flat section with a lot of pooled water so scrambling and jumping to stay dry was needed.
Another very steep climb over stony ground for about 2 km and finally arrived at the albergue. I was immediately welcomed before I even entered by Manuela the owner. It is a very nice place up on the mountain with views across the valley and back to the way we had come.

After the usual shower, wash clothes, beer and bocadillo routine I walked around the village a little. There is not much here, just a few houses and a church with some of the houses looking in bad condition and possibly even abandoned.

When I checked my email I read that Christa was going to look after Caleb this morning since both Sarah and Wade were working. I called her and we were able to do FaceTime even. Caleb was mostly interested in the horse in the field behind me he saw when I showed them the view from here. The horse didn't cooperate very well since he kept putting his head down below a wall to eat the grass.
There is also a church but with so few people here I don't expect they have services very often.

The most interesting part of the church was the storks nest on top of the bell tower but every time I was ready to take a picture she would put her head down, feeding young I think.

In the albergue we have a big room with a wood fire which makes it very cozy, especially after all the cold rooms we have experienced up to now and at this elevation it will probably be cold tonight
So far we are 7 people here tonight. Two Austrians, one French, one Dutch, and three from USA including me. Here we can get dinner tonight and wifi is great so feel very comfortable.

Had a very nice dinner here with soup, meat and salad and ice cream along with bread and wine. Then sat in front of the fire chatting until bed time.
Just as were getting ready to go to bed we looked out and there was a beautiful rainbow complete to both ends and part of it was double and as bright as I have ever seen. Tried to get a picture but it was too wide to get on one picture.

Rain is just starting tonight and is forecast for tomorrow but we can't complain after the last few beautiful days.

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