Day 32 - Lavacolla to SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA

We were awake early and ready to leave by 6:45. Breakfast was set to start at 7:00 but they were ready when we came down so we had our breakfast and were ready to leave by 7:15. It was once again a cold morning, about 4°C but the sky looked as if the few high clouds would soon clear. The first part of the final stretch was uphill and we soon warmed up as the sun rose.
We continued through woods and small villages, past the Spanish TV station studios at the top of the hill then started our descent towards Santiago. Soon we were in the suburbs having stopped to get one last sello (stamp) in our pilgrims passes before we entered the city. It was exciting to get our first sight of the cathedral towers and then to stand in front of it at 9:00 am. There were very few people about and it was still cold in the shade by the west end of the cathedral as the sun was still quite low in the east.
Our first view of the spires of the cathedral

We arrived at the back side of the cathedral but soon we were around it.......

 

And stood in front of the impressive west façade

We made our way to the Oficina del Peregrino, Pilgrim Office in a street behind the cathedral which had just opened at 9:00 and soon we were in front of one of the people who examine the record in the Credential (pilgrim passport) with all the stamps and decide if the record meets the requirements for the Compostela, a document in Latin that certifies that you have completed the requirements of a true Christian pilgrimage.
We all received our Compostelas and our journey was officially completed. It was a very special moment for all three of us. Now we are entitled to a 50% reduction in our time in purgatory when we die according to the ancient doctrine.
There was also a place where we could leave our backpacks for the rest of the day for €1 and we all took advantage of it. At that moment I received a text from Christa that she had arrived and was waiting for us in the square in front of the cathedral. We soon met her and of course it was photo time and also emotional.

Since Werner and Josef wanted to get some information about their return travel from the Pilgrim Travel Office, Christa and I went to look around the cathedral. There were not many people there yet and I found it both exciting and humbling to be able to visit the tomb of St James, my patron saint in a crypt below the high altar. The relics are in in a silver casket in a small chapel that at one time was part of a Roman building but the cathedral has been built above this so most of the original Roman building is no longer there. No crowds yet and there was time for a moment of prayer and thanksgiving at a prayer desk in front of the casket.
The cathedral is huge and was built especially as a pilgrim cathedral with he high altar above the tomb and smaller chapels around the outside. It was built in the 12th century and like the other great cathedrals in Burgos and León we have visited on this journey it is an amazing accomplishment. Huge high arches with only simple decoration and unlike León not much glass. Now there are lights but in early days it must have felt very different. Pictures are difficult and I was too excited to take many. Christa has some and I will try and add them to this blog at a later date.

We still had time to find a cup of coffee and then meet up again with Werner and Josef to find seats for the noon pilgrim Mass. Back into the cathedral at 11:00 and already many of the seats were occupied. We found seats and waited. By 11:30 all the seats were full and the Mass began promptly at 12:00.

A nun led the singing but the whole service was in Spanish including a long sermon. I did not understand much but my Latin from 55 years ago let me believe he spent a lot a time talking about sinners. After the pilgrimage I did not think that was a very appropriate way of encouraging us further to good works. However the most exciting part was at the end when they lit the worlds largest incense censor "botafumeiro" which with the help of 8 men is lifted up and swings across the whole church almost up to the ceiling spreading smoke as it flies. An amazing site! This was followed by a blessing and the service was over.

We left the cathedral, bought a few souvenirs and found a place to share a final lunch together. Josef is leaving us and heading out tomorrow for Finisterre. Werner and I are going with Christa for a few days to the apartment she has rented to give Werner's leg a rest. If he improves he and I will probably walk part of the Camino to Finisterre and on to Muxia.

 

Well, this will be the final blog from this adventure. For me it was spiritual, physical and as some would say "Adventure before Dementia" .

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