Day 19 - Villarente to La Virgen del Camino

Good night's sleep and ready to leave after breakfast at about 7:30. The weather forecast was good for sun and 18°C so wore shorts and packed convertible pants legs in backpack. Surprise when I walked outside. It was foggy and 7°C. I decided to go as I was since I was sure the fog would lift quickly and it would warm up.
We set out on the 12 km to Léon but it was pretty much commercial routes. Rather ugly with a lot of trash and graffiti along the way. I missed the daily cuckoo calls and had to manage with doves and roosters. I think we are too close to the city.
Although the path was not pleasant at least well marked. It is Sunday so there was not much traffic and everything was closed. Could not find a cup of coffee and my legs were rather cold in the 7°C, 45°F
We crossed the Rio Torio next to an old bridge, a separate bridge had been built for pedestrians since the old one is narrow with a lot of traffic.

We arrived in the old part of the city of Léon which is very well preserved and very pretty.

Then we passed the Casa de Botines (Bank of Spain) which is very pretty, designed by Gaudi.

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Round the corner and up a short street and we were in front of Léon Cathedral at about 10:15.

 

Built in the 13th century it is very different with amazing stained glass in every elevation. Unfortunately it was still foggy so there was no sun to shine through the windows which must be incredible. We went in and they had a very good headset guide to take you around and show the highlights.
This is the west door. It is difficult to get good pictures with my iPhone with limited exposure options but I will include some even if they don't really show the beauty of the colors and extent of the amazing windows.

 

I liked the carvings of the prophets on the choir stalls.

After the cathedral we found a coffee shop for our café con leche before we headed out of town. On our way we passed another interesting building San Marcos Museum and San Marcos Parador

Then we were again in a rather dirty and graffiti covered part of town, across the highway and the railroad as we headed towards our planned stop for the day. We were glad when we got there, in what seems to be a dormitory suburb of Léon but a very comfortable albergue in peaceful gardens next to a seminary and run by an order of monks.
The dormitory rooms are nice and very clean and the showers excellent, separate for male and female which makes it a bit easier for all. Also washers and dryers but we got all our laundry done yesterday so no need for that today.

In the meantime the fog has lifted and the sun has come out to warm us up. a pity it took so long and was not there when we needed it when we visited the cathedral.

Some people like to hang out their washing in the garden in the sun and said it smelled nice like the lilac next to it!

I went out for something for lunch and found a place with empanadas. Very nice change from the boccadillos. I brought it back to the albergue and we sat in the sun to enjoy our lunch.
Then we went to look around the town but there was not much to see. We stopped for beer at a place with tables outside in the sun, and each time we ordered a round they brought us tapas. Once it was mussels, once calamari and potatoes and once olives (we only ordered small beers - 0.33ml)!
Sorry but I don't know how to turn the photo around when it is upside down.
This is the Calamari and potato.

At around 7:00 pm we went out for a peregrino dinner. 3 courses as usual Paella, liver, and ice cream. All very good even if the liver was very spicy but nice and tender. Then back to the albergue to finish the blog and call home. I never know when I will have good wifi again.

 

Some people have asked me how my feet are holding up and also my shoes. I have not dared to say anything earlier but so far I have not any problems with blisters despite walking over 300 miles through snow, rain, mud, rocks, gravel, sand and hot days. I think the combination of shoes, and two layers of socks (inner liner socks from REI, and outer Marino wool also REI brand work better for me than Smart Wool) keep the moisture well controlled from both inside and outside.
The shoes are "trail runners" brand Vasque and are very comfortable but not waterproof. Even in heavy rain the socks keep my feet generally dry and warm. I was told that waterproof shoes will always get wet inside anyway and don't dry out in one night. Mine are always dry in the morning. Others put on wet shoes and blisters are a huge problem for many people. I bought mine a full size larger than I normally wear which gives me plenty of room in for my toes even on steep downhill stretches and with two pars of socks they fit my feet very well. Although Christa will bring the pair of shoes I used for training (just in case), I fully expect the ones I have to last for the final 200 miles

In fact all my clothes except the first poncho have been excellent. Very little I would change.
If anyone has any questions I would be happy to try and answer. I can't possibly cover everything in a blog and just try and give an overview to help me remember the experience.
Today we walked 21.5 km, 13.5 miles, a short day but the cathedral and Léon took time.
So far we have covered 491 km, 305 miles. 195 miles to Santiago de Compostella

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