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Friday, May 17, 2013

Day 24 - Cacabelos to Vega de Valcarce

A good night's sleep in the rather strange 2 bed units of the albergue. During the night I heard the rain on the roof, rather like the rain on the tent at Boy Scout camp many years ago. When I went out this morning however the sky looked as if it might clear.
This is Werner and my cell
We set off at about 7:00 and soon found a place offering breakfast of bacon and eggs for €3.50 it was nice with a fire in the fireplace since it was still cold and we had come from the unheated albergue it warmed us for the walk ahead. Today we planned 25 km.
On the road again mostly along the main road but then across fields and vineyards to Villafranca del Bierzo. The weather looked as if it couldn't decide whether it would rain or the sun would come out. It was about 10°C, 50°F. We continued through the town but the Camino was not very well marked and after a few wrong turns we found the way to continue. Soon we had a decision to make. There were two alternatives. One went up over a mountain and one along the river through the valley. The skies were dark and it was starting to rain. After the rain in the night and the low clouds we decided to take the low road. We would have been in the clouds the other way and not seen anything and the path would have probably been wet, muddy and slippery
The road through the valley was not very interesting and mostly on asphalt paving beside the main road and the river. It started to rain quite hard and it was time for rain gear. We set off again and since Werner and I just needed to put on our ponchos we were quickly back on the way. Josef had to change his jacket and was further behind. After about 45 minutes we stopped for a cup of coffee. Somehow Josef missed the café and he had not shown up when we were ready to leave. I tried to call him on my cell phone but no answer. We decided to go on but 2 hours later at our next stop we had not found him even after looking in all the cafes along the way.
We arrived at a rest stop from the freeway and there were trucks parked with very large windmill blades and other parts parked so here are some pictures for Albert.
Werner and I had 2 beers while we waited for Josef but he did not show up. There was a statue of a Peregrino which was quite cute compared to some of the other ones we have seen.
Back on the road the rain continued on and off until at about 1:30 we reached the village where we planned to spend the night. There was a Panaderia (bakery) so we stopped and shared an empanada and an apple torte and then went to look for Albergue Municipal. We soon found it and found that people were already there but no administer to register with. The others had put there things on beds and were already cooking their meal and taking showers. We decided to occupy beds too and at 3:00 there was still no sign of any organizer but a man from the house across the street said that someone might be there at 6:00 pm. Normally the albergues open at about 12:30 so we wondered what was going on but since we had a bed we were not really worried. The only problem was that it was cold and with no heating, no sun and no information it was not very comfortable.
Werner went to the supermarket and bought a bottle of wine which kept us warm for a while with the sun coming out from time to time between the rain showers. There was no internet so we moved to one of the local restaurants where there was heating and internet and spent the rest of the afternoon with another bottle of wine (if you haven't already realized the local wine is very cheap and very good so this is no hardship!).
Josef arrived at the albergue later. He had missed the café where we had stopped for coffee but found us later anyway so all is good again.
We went to the supermarket to look around.
Everyday low prices, I think I have heard that slogan before!
Back to the albergue at about 5:30 to see what was happening with registration. Some people arrived and told us ( via 2 interpreters) that the municipality had given up administration of the albergue and that as of today some other government entity was responsible. They were very nice and registered us but were not able to take our €5 payment until 6:00 pm. No problem. We didn't mind if we never had to pay but $6 for a bed for the night was not going to be an issue with us one way or the other anyway. Where else can you get this even if it is a dormitory with 10 strangers, no heating and a bathroom down the hall! Such is the life of a Peregrino.
Later a Seńora came round to collect the €5 and we were all settled.
The albergue is directly under a very high bridge carrying the freeway, probably one that Christa and Ute drove across earlier today.
Dinner later in the restaurant. By now they know us and we get a very good meal with friendly service and a liqueur afterwards.
The forecast for tomorrow is not good. It is raining here and we have heard we should expect snow tomorrow on the top of the mountain which is on our agenda. Up to 1,300 meters (4,000 ft). We will have to see what happens.
Today we walked 26km 16 miles

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