Camino Day 11 - Agés to Burgos

I had not been looking forward to Burgos because getting there involved a 12 km walk through an industrial and commercial area and after all these days in the countryside it will be a shock.
We all slept well in our attic and after breakfast we set out. As it got light we saw a cloudless sky with frost on the fields. Soon the sun came up and it is a glorious day. The best since the day we crossed the Pyrenees 10 days ago. As we walked and the sun got higher we gradually took off layers of clothes. We climbed about 300 meters over a ridge and then a steep descent down towards Burgos just appearing from a morning mist. We had a lovely view from above the mist to the tops of the hills in the sun.
After about 2 hours we came to a café by the road and stopped for our morning Café con leche. Then as we reached the edge of the Burgos airport we were in traffic with noise and smells that we had been free of. It was a shock. Some people had said they would take a bus from there into town, but we were determined to walk to Santiago so we kept going around the airport, past factories and commercial buildings and after passing a new residential area we got to a section with older run down apartments and shops. It is Saturday and a lot of people were out shopping.
In Pamplona, the first larger city we passed through it was raining and we had to dodge the umbrellas. This time it was sunny, but we had to dodge the baguettes that each shopping bag had sticking out in all possible directions. On we went and after about 2.5 hours we got to the old town. It was still only about 11:30 and most Albergues don't open until 1:00pm so we stopped at a café in a square in a pedestrian area and had a beer while we enjoyed the sun and the people out and about and the children playing.
Then we headed for the Albergue which is a large one here with 150 beds. It was already open and there was a line of people waiting to register. It took about 30 minutes but we met several people in line we already knew so the time passed quickly. We were allocated 3 bunks on the 3rd floor. They are in cabin like pods with 4 bunks to a unit. Showers etc close and very organized and clean. Each bunk has a light and an electrical outlet for phone, iPad etc. all for €5 a night so much luxury for us after some of the places in which we have stayed.

We dumped our backpacks and had showers. I discovered I had left my towel at the last Albergue so I went to find one in the town. The Albergue is in the center of the old town right next to the cathedral. A super location. I found mostly souvenir shops and restaurants until I stumbled across a shop that was not very big but had everything, food, wine, shoelaces, pots and pans, soap, bug killer and towels. I was happy so back to the Albergue, a nice shower and I was ready for sightseeing.
This is a beautiful little town and I am so glad we stopped here along the Camino. A lot of pedestrian areas, perfect for peregrinos are walkers anyway, and well renovated. We were ready for something to eat and each got a sandwich (mine was ham on a crispy baguette) along with a beer sitting outside in the sun watching the people go by. We didn't even feel guilty since we had already walked 22 km, 13.5 miles, and climbed up and down hills of 300 meters (almost 1,000 ft.)
Then we went into the cathedral.

Wow, almost worth all the walking we have done to visit. I can't describe. I think the most impressive I have ever seen anywhere and very well restored or renovated. If anyone ever visits Spain, it should be included in their agenda. I took lots of photos but I can't start to write a description. I bought a little book which I will now have to carry, so what can I do without? I think I can spare some socks and my wooly hat and gloves to offset the weight. The Camino makes you carefully consider what you really need rather than what you want to have. An interesting change in the way you view possessions. As Peregrinos we got a 50% reduction on the entrance fee.
The cathedral is an early gothic structure and it appears that the technique of large open spaces with wide unsupported roofs had not yet been perfected so there are large columns inside and the area is divided into smaller units. What we would consider the nave in a cathedral was divided into 4 sections each with an altar and a choir. Around the edge there are 31 chapels each differently designed, and many with their own unique dome. Many of the domes had windows letting in light in different designs. I will let some pictures try and tell the story.

After we came out of the cathedral, we strolled around the town soaking up the sun and the warmth before meeting again for dinner.

Dinner was a peregrino menu in a restaurant. Three courses plus wine and water €10. We find that on average we are spending about €30 each per day including bed, all meals, beer, wine, coffee and the occasional incidental such as toothpaste, soap etc. not bad for Europe!
Today's surprise for me was the incredible artistry in the cathedral that I had not expected.
Tomorrow's plan is to walk to Hornillos del Camino, only 13 miles but there are very limited beds so we may end up on mattresses on the floor of a sports hall. But at least there should be showers and toilets. We have learned not to be concerned. The Camino will provide.
Today we covered 22 km (13.5 miles) so total to date is 299km (189 miles)

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