Camino Day 12 - Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

We went to bed early yesterday and were awake at 6:00. No breakfast in the Albergue so we were ready to get on the road at about 6:45 when they opened the doors. We had herd a lot of shouting and singing on the street outside during the whole night even when we got up at 6:00 am but there were no signs of anything when we went out.
The road out of Burgos was much nicer than the road coming in and we went through parks and past a university before we left the city and were in the country again. It is Sunday there were no people about and no traffic. It was cold, near freezing but as the sun came up it quickly warmed up. The air was clear and as we slowly climbed we could see the mist along the river.

We needed breakfast but it was about 2 hours of walking before we finally found a café which was just opening and got a delivery of fresh croissants just in time. By now the sun was well up so were able to reduce our layers of clothing and start the 150 meter (500 ft) climb. It turned out to be quite an easy climb and were now on the Meseta high plateau at about 900 meters (3000 ft) which will be our elevation for the next several days. The scenery is rolling hills with crops and grazing areas but almost no trees.

The day was nice and we continued on to our destination for the day soon after 11:00 am. We discussed whether to go further but decided that since we are already a full day ahead of our original schedule and in no hurry we would stay here and use the nice sunny weather to wash clothes and get them dry and enjoy a leisurely afternoon.
We found the Albergue but it won't open until 12:30 or 1:00pm. There was a café for coffee while we waited for the Albergue which is next to the church and there is a square out in front. While we were waiting in the square a black man was dropped off at the church and someone came and showed him into the church. Soon a few older ladies also went in and I realized the black man was the priest for a Sunday mass. about 30 minutes later he came out with the other people and was picked up in a car. I suppose they are so short of priests in Spain to cover all the churches that there are priests from other countries to share the load.
The Albergue opened at 1:00 and we were among the first through the door being given a bed number on a torn piece of paper the size of a postage stamp with a handwritten number on it. We found our bunks, we were pleased to see that all three had lower ones. We settled in and soon the Albergue was full and people were being sent to other buildings and into a sports hall with camp beds. We were glad we were early and got bunks in the main building despite the temperature in there being freezing. It will be even colder in the sports hall tonight.

Then we were called to register and asked for our bed number. I told her 30 and she asked for the postage stamp which I couldn't find. I didn't know it would be so important! She sent me out to look for it and despite emptying my backpack and looking everywhere I couldn't find it. I was appropriately chastised in Spanish and begged for forgiveness. The rest of the crowd waiting were supporting me in this pantomime and finally I was allowed to register and got my "sello" stamp in my pilgrim pass.

We did our washing (by hand since no washing machine) and hung it out to dry in the sun. Then a shower and we sat out in front of the building, next to the church, and enjoyed a beer.

 

People came and went. The next Albergue is 12 km further so many had to make a decision, sports hall on a camp bed or walk further and hope there is space. We know a lot of the people, at least the ones who speak some English or German. A German showed up and asked if any of us had lost a towel. I said yes and there was the towel I had forgotten two days ago! One of his friends had found it when they left the attic at the dinner disaster place. After we left he said breakfast was also a disaster with crying etc. I am glad we missed the Seinfeld sequel!
We had a nice Sunday afternoon doing nothing and I spent time to catch up on my blog. At about 6:30 Werner and Josef came and said the restaurant across the street was full and no space until late tonight. Not surprising really since they only have 4 tables and about 100 people staying in the village tonight. We decided to go to the little village shop (population of the village is 100) and buy some food to eat at the Albergue. We bought baguettes, ham, salami, cheese and tomatoes along with 2 bottles of wine and had a great dinner on the terrace on the west side of the church as the sun went down. Life is good.

An easy day and no rush tomorrow. While we were waiting for the Albergue to open a woman came by offering rooms in a private home. I agreed to a room with 3 beds for €45 or €15 each. More than the 5-10 we would pay for an Albergue, but it will be nice to have a bed instead of a bunk after 11 days on the Camino. Shower, bathroom will also be easier.
Today we walked 21 km (13 miles). Total so far 320 km (202 miles)

Posted with Blogsy