Camino Day 4 - Cizur Menor to Mañeru

Slept ok but there was a competition during the night between a snorer in our room and dogs barking outside. I don't know which was worse! I woke up at 6:00 and we got on the road at about 6:30. Yesterday, an Austrian - Josef had asked if he might walk with us. Of course we said yes so the three of us set out together. He is from near Vienna and doing the Camino on his own.
On our map we had seen that fairly early in the day we would climb a hill about 1,000 Ft and then descend the other side. It was raining off and on but not too badly. We came to a village and hoped to find a place for coffee and breakfast but no luck so we kept going up the hill. Then we encountered mud - deep clinging mud that stuck to our shoes and trousers. It was steep and slippery. We kept on this for about an hour making slow progress up the hill. Our guide book had said that there would be loose stones that could be slippery going down but nothing about the ascent! Finally we reached the top where there were rows of windmills all turning in the wind. They actually made quite a loud humming noise when we got near them. There was also a sculpture representing pilgrims leaning into the wind. By now the rain had stopped and the sun was trying to come out. We were able to take off our rain gear and set off down the mountain. It was stony and a bit slippery but so much better than the mud that we were happy with it. The weather got better and better as we continued.
No pictures of the mud, it was all we could do to stay upright without trying to take a picture, but I got some of the view and the windmills.

We then came to a small village and found a sign to coffee at an Albergue. It was about 9:30 and we were more than ready for our breakfast since we already been walking for 3 hours with nothing to eat. It seemed closed but as we decided what to do some people came and opened it up. We went in and had a good breakfast while we dried out and rested after struggling with the mud. On the way down we had crossed a small stream running across the road and been able to clean our shoes somewhat.
By now the sun was out and the clouds were much less threatening as we set off again on our trail. We continued on to Puenta La Reyna which was our planned stop for the day after 13 miles and we arrived there at about 11:30.

It is a pretty town with a lot of old buildings and a famous Pilgrim Bridge commanded to be built by the wife of Sancho III to support the increasing number of pilgrims traveling through the town. We realized that it was only 12:00 and decided to continue further. The weather had got nice despite a bad forecast and we all felt good. So we set out again and after climbing another hill we came to Mañeru, a small pretty village with a small Albergue (12 beds in one room) that looked inviting. We decided to stop here so we could wash the mud off our clothes and catch up on other washing. The sun was out and we would be able to get it to dry. They also have wifi.
We were the first and had great showers with hot water. The last 2 days the hot water was all gone before we got to the showers. We also got our washing done and hung out on the line to dry. Josef has proven to be a very good companion and we seem to get along well together.
They seem to have forgotten the wifi password and cannot get it work so that will have to wait until another day. In the meantime the Albergue has filled up with other pilgrims. It seems to be very cold as it was yesterday in the Albergue but with 12 people in the room tonight it will warm up I hope. Anyway my sleeping bag is great so I will be fine.

Dinner time
Life on the Camino in the Albergues makes me think of the "Canterbury Tales". People on a pilgrimage spending an evening together, all from different backgrounds, all with different tales to tell. I have not heard any as good as Chaucer's yet but there is still time! I don't regret one minute of the experience and feel we are really doing it the right way.
Two mornings ago I could not find my toothbrush and emptied every pocket of my backpack and every bag but it, together with toothpaste and razor were nowhere to be found. So that evening I went to the local " market" which is really a very small mini-market to buy another. I found packs of 2 and when I asked if they had single packs the man said no, but take two, they are so cheap! They were €4. I took them but almost said that when my bed for the night is only €6, €4 for a toothbrush is a lot. Anyway they are fine, except that the one I lost suddenly appeared again along with my razor and toothpaste! So today I could shave again and now I have 3 toothbrushes to carry. I had only planned to shave every few days anyway and the last time was Tuesday morning in Stansted but that seems like another world now.
The Spanish people are very friendly and welcoming, at least here in the Basque Country where we have been so far. When we ask for help or directions they are always very helpful and go out of their way to help even when they seldom speak English. In Pamplona we missed a turn once and people came running out to tell us where we should be going before we even knew we were on the wrong street. People with backpacks and hiking poles are easily identifiable as pilgrims in a big city but it is nice that they try to help. If we have not seen a sign for a while and ask if we are on the Camino, they don't just say yes, but proceed to give a long explanation of where to go. Since we cannot tell even if they are speaking Spanish or Basque it is lost on us but we appreciate their attempts to take time and be helpful.
I am also getting fitter and more used to the hills. Walking all day was not a problem but my thighs have not been happy with the climbing and steep descents. One Ibuprofen has been a great help but now we are out of the Pyrenees and the higher mountain areas for a while I feel fine, already after just 4 days on the Camino.
We spent a lazy afternoon and then had the pilgrim dinner here. It was a wonderful salad with tuna, asparagus and olives followed by Spanish omelette. It had potatoes, onions, in it and the Spanish guy sitting next to me said it was just like his grandmother used to make so I know what a real Spanish omelette tastes like in Spain! We also had local red wine (one bottle per 3 people) and a sweet quark dessert. Very good and not too heavy.
Not much going on so to bed at 9:30, breakfast set for 6:30 tomorrow. We want once again to do a bit more than plan and end up at Villamayor de Monjardin. Weather is supposed to be cloudy and cold but dry. Fine for Peregrinos walking.
It has been 3 days since I wrote this and now I have difficulty getting the pictures on the right days so I will stop and start the next day's blog

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