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Thursday, April 25, 2013

Camino Day 2 - Roncesvalles to Larrasoaña

Woke up at 6:00 feeling good. Got packed and ready and left at 7:00 for the next stage. No breakfast served in the Albergue so walked for about 45 minutes and then stopped at a little restaurant for coffee rolls and jam. It was excellent and we were soon on our way again across fields, meadows, small rivers and through farms. It was very pretty and the mountains with patches of snow were behind us. The sky was clear and the sun was rising as we walked. We went through small forests and heard the birds including the cuckoo. The fields were full of spring flowers except for the ones that had fresh manure spread on them. All the senses were fully occupied. All very idyllic. Then we started to climb again and my legs rebelled a little. Not like yesterday but not easy. We pressed on and finally reached the summit, higher than the Albergue where we had started but not as high as yesterday. It dropped again and then repeated this a couple of times so what we had expected to be an easy walk turned out to be a greater challenge.
The landscape was pretty and the weather perfect as we gradually eliminated layers of clothing with the rising sun and the day getting warmer. At about 12:30 after 5.5 hours of walking we came to a small village and found a little shop where they would make a sandwich. Werner chose ham and I chose cheese (Basque cheese since that is where we are) on crispy bread.
We sat at some tables across the street to eat and then started the final leg of today's walk. It was tougher and longer than our guide book had said and I struggled towards the end but at 2:45 we finally made it and checked in at the Albergue. This one is more primitive but only costs €6:00 for a bed.
I worked on a blog for a while and then joined Werner for a couple of beers sitting outside in the village square. No traffic. We met several people who we had already seen along the way. From Holland, Belgium, Denmark, USA, Germany, Austria etc. all very nice people and great fun. The Albergues are definitely the way to go. You meet such a wonderful selection of people all following the same route but seeing things slightly differently. So much in common already even after only a couple of days so far. The sleeping is fine even with 20 people in a room. People are generally respectful and by bedtime, usually 10:00 pm you are so tired that sleep is not a problem even with a few snorers in the room.
Usually pilgrim dinners are offered at the restaurants. Tonight I had garlic soup, beef stew, and rice pudding along with wine for €10 . It was an excellent meal and we sat at big long tables with people we had met and some we had not yet met.
Then a final beer and back to get ready for bed. I had a top bunk tonight. I think I prefer it since I can't really sit up in a lower one without bumping my head. If there is a ladder it is easy to get in and out but tonight there is only a rickety chair so I hope it will last for at least one more night.
That's all for today. Tomorrow will be a new adventure!

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