Wow, a night in a room by myself and air conditioned led to a long, deep sleep after three nights in a row of only a couple of hours each night has helped get me back on track. The alarm went off at 6:00 and together with the other 4 people staying here we made a quick breakfast, packed and were ready to go by 6:30. It seems to be a bit cooler today but that can change.
It was already light enough when we left to see the signs and the yellow arrows and soon we were out of town and in the country. The path was very nice, through olive groves and past some cows, steadily going uphill but not very steep. Today we spent most of the day in the Sierra Norte Nature Park and climbed about 1,000 ft but a steady climb with a lots of trees to offer shade much of the time. Sometimes we crossed cattle grids and sometimes we had to open and close gates on the trail.
This is (once was) an orange plantation
As we continued the vegetation changed to include oak trees, cork trees wild olives, at least that is what the guide book says. I don't know what a cork tree looks like but there a lot of one type I did not recognize so here is a picture of it. If some expert knows better, feel free to tell me what it really is.
Mostly the trail was sandy but in the steeper sections it had washed badly and there were deep ruts, many of them as much as 2 ft deep. It must be quite difficult in the rainy season. Even now there were often only very narrow flatter places to walk and these were usually under some low hanging olive trees where walking underneath with a backpack was not easy and I had to be careful not to get pushed into a dep rut. Olive branches are tough and very springy so I am not sure why offering one is a sign of peace - anyway I digress.
On the path we caught up with Graziano, from Italy whom I had met yesterday. I was with the 2 Germans (Sabine and Reinhard from Berlin and Koblenz) and the Canadian (Linda from Quebec but speaks perfect English) who showed up at the Albergue after me. Graziano had been the only pilgrim at the other Albergue in town so between 2 Albergues we were just 5 peregrinos in town last night.
It was such a change from yesterday that even the climb was not a real challenge and it is noticeably cooler here than it was in Seville. The last stretch of the day was along the side of a rather busy road with ther cars and trucks passing at 60 mph. There was really no room to walk next to the road so we had to be very careful when we heard traffic coming not to fall into the ditch.
Soon after we entered the town we came to the Albergue. It was soon after 11:00 when Graziano and I arrived, with the others arriving about 30 mins later. The Albergue does not open until 12:00 so went across the street for a café con leche while we waited in the shade.
Graziano told me he has walked several Caminos already. He retired at 57 (we should have lived in Italy if you can get a pension at 57) and is now 61. He has a daughter but is separated from his wife. He lives in Trento, in the north of Italy. A very friendly person.
The Albergue opened and all 5 of us registered. Here the price is "donativo" (donation please) where the guideline in €5.00. Of course there is plenty of room since they have 28 beds so were able to spread out again - what a luxury. I showered and washed the few things I had but it was not much since the señora yesterday had washed and dried everything on the washing line yesterday. However when I put the clothes on this morning they were stiff and probably still had soap in them so I washed them again today and hung them out in the sun. With a nice breeze and low humidity they will be dry in no time.
How many of you still do your washing this way?
I also hung my sleeping bag out to air. Last year the weather was generally bad and it was not possible. By the end of the Camino after more than 30 days of use it was more than ready for the washing machine (TMI).
Reinhard suggested we go for lunch between 2 and 3. I forgot he is German and I was not ready at 2:01 when he said he about to leave and set off. I had some washing which was already dry to put away and by the time I was a ready he had disappeared. I found him further down the street since the restaurant he had proposed was closed, so we went to another one, further away. The lunch was good, just 3 of us since the others were not hungry yet.
Linch was, as usual, the pilgrim menu with 3 courses plus drink. I chose soup, venison stew and flan plus beer and bread. All for €8.00. It was fine (no picture of the soup since it was watery soup with croutons.). There are Sabine and Reinhard. Graziano and Linda didn't want to go yet.
When we returned to the Albergue more peregrinos had arrived on bikes. Three from Italy and two from Germany. Of course they cover much more distance per day than we do on foot. So now 10 of the 28 beds are filled.
No wifi at the Albergue, the café we were at earlier or at the lunch place so yesterday's blog and Viber call to Christa will have to wait.
Took a siesta (nap) after lunch and then went to find the "supermarket" which is a one room shop that sells everything. Got some bottled water for my camelback since the tap water tastes bad even if they claim it is agua potable, and some Aquarious (Gatorade) to add some electrolytes. The hot air is so dry that it does feel as if I am sweating but when I drink 2 liters of water and don't need to p...., it must be going somewhere!. Anyway I feel good except for a few aches and pains that will get better each day as we walk.
Tomorrow's route to the next town where we could stay would be more than 30 km with the first 16 along a highway. With the high temperatures,four of us decided to take a taxi for this section and join the Camino again where it then enters the El Berrocal Forest Park, "one of the most magnificent walking areas in the whole way". Graziano will walk the whole way which he expects will take about 9 hours.
Tomorrow is William's 4th birthday and I wish him a wonderful day and many many more. HAPPY BIRTHDAY WILLIAM.
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