Camino Day 11 - Agés to Burgos

I had not been looking forward to Burgos because getting there involved a 12 km walk through an industrial and commercial area and after all these days in the countryside it will be a shock.
We all slept well in our attic and after breakfast we set out. As it got light we saw a cloudless sky with frost on the fields. Soon the sun came up and it is a glorious day. The best since the day we crossed the Pyrenees 10 days ago. As we walked and the sun got higher we gradually took off layers of clothes. We climbed about 300 meters over a ridge and then a steep descent down towards Burgos just appearing from a morning mist. We had a lovely view from above the mist to the tops of the hills in the sun.
After about 2 hours we came to a café by the road and stopped for our morning Café con leche. Then as we reached the edge of the Burgos airport we were in traffic with noise and smells that we had been free of. It was a shock. Some people had said they would take a bus from there into town, but we were determined to walk to Santiago so we kept going around the airport, past factories and commercial buildings and after passing a new residential area we got to a section with older run down apartments and shops. It is Saturday and a lot of people were out shopping.
In Pamplona, the first larger city we passed through it was raining and we had to dodge the umbrellas. This time it was sunny, but we had to dodge the baguettes that each shopping bag had sticking out in all possible directions. On we went and after about 2.5 hours we got to the old town. It was still only about 11:30 and most Albergues don't open until 1:00pm so we stopped at a café in a square in a pedestrian area and had a beer while we enjoyed the sun and the people out and about and the children playing.
Then we headed for the Albergue which is a large one here with 150 beds. It was already open and there was a line of people waiting to register. It took about 30 minutes but we met several people in line we already knew so the time passed quickly. We were allocated 3 bunks on the 3rd floor. They are in cabin like pods with 4 bunks to a unit. Showers etc close and very organized and clean. Each bunk has a light and an electrical outlet for phone, iPad etc. all for €5 a night so much luxury for us after some of the places in which we have stayed.

We dumped our backpacks and had showers. I discovered I had left my towel at the last Albergue so I went to find one in the town. The Albergue is in the center of the old town right next to the cathedral. A super location. I found mostly souvenir shops and restaurants until I stumbled across a shop that was not very big but had everything, food, wine, shoelaces, pots and pans, soap, bug killer and towels. I was happy so back to the Albergue, a nice shower and I was ready for sightseeing.
This is a beautiful little town and I am so glad we stopped here along the Camino. A lot of pedestrian areas, perfect for peregrinos are walkers anyway, and well renovated. We were ready for something to eat and each got a sandwich (mine was ham on a crispy baguette) along with a beer sitting outside in the sun watching the people go by. We didn't even feel guilty since we had already walked 22 km, 13.5 miles, and climbed up and down hills of 300 meters (almost 1,000 ft.)
Then we went into the cathedral.

Wow, almost worth all the walking we have done to visit. I can't describe. I think the most impressive I have ever seen anywhere and very well restored or renovated. If anyone ever visits Spain, it should be included in their agenda. I took lots of photos but I can't start to write a description. I bought a little book which I will now have to carry, so what can I do without? I think I can spare some socks and my wooly hat and gloves to offset the weight. The Camino makes you carefully consider what you really need rather than what you want to have. An interesting change in the way you view possessions. As Peregrinos we got a 50% reduction on the entrance fee.
The cathedral is an early gothic structure and it appears that the technique of large open spaces with wide unsupported roofs had not yet been perfected so there are large columns inside and the area is divided into smaller units. What we would consider the nave in a cathedral was divided into 4 sections each with an altar and a choir. Around the edge there are 31 chapels each differently designed, and many with their own unique dome. Many of the domes had windows letting in light in different designs. I will let some pictures try and tell the story.

After we came out of the cathedral, we strolled around the town soaking up the sun and the warmth before meeting again for dinner.

Dinner was a peregrino menu in a restaurant. Three courses plus wine and water €10. We find that on average we are spending about €30 each per day including bed, all meals, beer, wine, coffee and the occasional incidental such as toothpaste, soap etc. not bad for Europe!
Today's surprise for me was the incredible artistry in the cathedral that I had not expected.
Tomorrow's plan is to walk to Hornillos del Camino, only 13 miles but there are very limited beds so we may end up on mattresses on the floor of a sports hall. But at least there should be showers and toilets. We have learned not to be concerned. The Camino will provide.
Today we covered 22 km (13.5 miles) so total to date is 299km (189 miles)

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Camino Day 10 - Belorado to Agés

We were late getting up after one of the best nights we have had. In a room with about 30 people but most were young people and no snorers. The forecast was for temperature of 0°C (32°F) but when we got started after breakfast at the Albergue it did not seem so cold. On the way at 7:15.
The route took us again through small villages and through towns and rolling hills. One of the villages had a café open and we stopped for a cup of coffee. In our book it showed that we would have 3 steep climbs with a totals of 500 meters (1600 ft). We did a lot of climbing and reached a height of 1,150 m or 3,773 ft before path flattened out and we walked along a high plateau for several km.

Werner, Josef and I along the way
the weather was cloudy with the sun coming out occasionally but still a rather cold wind when we were not in the forest. At about 12:30 we reached our goal for the day. The small village of San Juan de Ortega (Ortega in Spanish means nettle) was our goal for the day and we found a place beside the church where we could buy a sandwich and beer. We sat outside in the sun and rested for a while. There was an Albergue there but our book said it was not well maintained and drafty so we were not keen to stay there.

San Juan of Ortega was a disciple on Santo Domingo (Benedict) and lived in this small remote town. He worked to help pilgrims with bridges, hospitals, churches and hostels throughout the region. He also founded an Augustinian monastery. He is buried in a simple stone sarcophagus

This is the Albergue we planned to stay in but decided to pass on after reading our guide. We didn't need another night of cold, drafty rooms

Statue of St Dominic

The tomb of San Juan de Ortega
After eating our lunch and looking at the church it was still early and only 3.8 km to the next village with an Albergue so we set off

View from the road, snow capped mountains on the horizon

The village of Agés as we approach
We were soon there and found the Albergue but were told they had no more beds available since all had been reserved. (No room at the inn) but that we could sleep on the floor in the attic if we wanted to. I went to look at it and found a big room with skylights and a pile of pillows and mattresses in a corner. It will be at least as comfortable as some of the bunk rooms, so we moved in and claimed our spaces. Showers available and a bar/restaurant downstairs - we will have everything we need.

After a shower and getting settled we went to look around the village.

An old church and a medieval bridge

We had another view of the mountains but they will be behind us. Tomorrow we will reach Burgos

Back to our attic. There is a cozy corner with sofas and a table. We had bought a bottle of wine in the village and some plastic cups. Werner had his Swiss Army knife to open the bottle and then we had an hour to discuss the day and plan for tomorrow.

We decided to have dinner at the Albergue. It turned out to be better than a Seinfeld episode. People came down to the dining room at various times and at about 7:00 pm the woman running the place (the owner) sent her husband round with a menu. it had pictures of all the items they offered.  It took about an hour before the menu got to us because the French people had to discuss and negotiate every item. We were to select one item for each of 3 courses. It turned out that after careful selection nothing that came was in any way related to the pictures we had been shown. The French got upset, the owner started crying, everyone was surprised. By the time we got our food we just accepted it.

We could not change anything and the husband kept making jokes but he only spoke Spanish which none of us understood. One of the Frenchmen walked into a glass door damaged his head and broke the door. That set the woman to crying again while she was trying to do all the cooking. Ice brought and everything else stopped for a while.
Eventually we all got something to eat but it had no relation to anything on the menu. More crying and complaining by the French while the rest laughed and accepted that the Camino brings a surprise every day.
Finally we all got a glass of some kind of schnapps and everyone except the French were happy.
Today we walked 28 km (17 miles) leaving 523 km (325 miles to go to Santiago. We have walked 175 miles so far from St Jean Pied de Port
Enough excitement for today. Now to bed on our attic mattresses!

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Camino Day 9 - Santo Domingo de La Calzada to Belorado

We survived the night but washing this morning in the cold was limited to brushing teeth! Outside to meet Josef coming from his hotel at 7:00 and on the road in rain.
Here leaving Santo Domingo. Yellow arrows on the corner of the building showing the way.

Not a very exciting trail today compared to other days. Much of the time we were next to a major highway with some detours to small villages.
We stopped in one at a house with a small village bakery in it. It was just after 8:00 and they were putting the bread in the oven. I could not get a picture of that but the smell was fantastic. Here is the "sales" area where we bought fresh hot croissants straight from the oven.

We then crossed the border to the next province of Castilla and Leon. In the province of La Rioja we loved the wine and we will miss it but the red clay soil that allows the Tempranillo grapes to give such good wine is a heavy sticky clay that sticks to your feet when it is wet (as it has been since we are here) will not be missed. Sometimes our shoes were so heavy we could hardly lift our feet and scraping the clay off only seemed to attract more. We have given up trying to keep them clean.

As we crossed the border however it was amazing how the soil changed form the red clay to a grey sandy soil which is much more friendly to walking.
One of the villages we passed through is the village of Viloria de La Rioja where St Dominic (Santo Domingo) was born and we passed the church where he was baptized. Each time we come across a sight such us this it reminds me of all the pilgrims and saints who have gone before us and the impact they have made.

Here is the church in which St Dominic was baptized. It was closed so I could not look inside.

We did not find anywhere for lunch on the way and we got to Belorado at about 12:00. The Albergue does not open until 1:00 so we found a café open in the town and had a couple of beers and ate the rest of our sandwiches. Then we checked into the Albergue and were allocated 3 lower bunks. The Hostaliera here gives preference to older pilgrims if they arrive in time and leaves the upper ones for the young ones. What a great idea!
This is the room we slept in. We all got a good night's sleep

Very friendly place where we can also participate in a communal dinner and get breakfast in the morning. The Hostaliera also gave us a basket to put dirty clothes in and said he would take care of washing and drying. What a great service!
We went for a walk through the little town. One of the churches is being renovated but it has campers on the roof. Can you spot them?

Back to the Albergue with plenty of time still before dinner at 7:30 and went to the community room. We found that we could buy Vino de La Casa there for €3 per bottle and it was excellent wine. Soon others joined us, each throwing a couple of Euros on the table and the wine kept flowing. We were speaking English, German, French, Spanish and there seemed to be no communication problems. It was a proper Pentecost!

Then upstairs for a good dinner and to bed at about 9:30. We were all tired after the cold of the night before. The weather had not warmed up outside but the Albergue was warmed inside. I was asleep before the lights went out at 10:00 pm and we all slept soundly. I did not even hear the person in the bunk above me go to bed.
Today we covered 23km (14.2 miles) with 357 miles left to Santiago (143 miles completed so far).

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Camino Day 8 - Ventosa to Santo Domingo de La Calzada

Usual wake up etc. at 6:00 but the tourists stayed in bed so we had more room to get dressed and packed and there were not so many people trying to use the bathroom at the same time.
On the road at 6:45 since no breakfast offered. A cool morning and not quite light yet but at least no rain so we moved quite fast. As we continued we came to the top of a rise and saw the sun shining on some mountains across a valley from us, white with snow. I don't know if the photo shows it but it was really beautiful. The Camino continually surprises me with these sights as we spend many hours each day walking through nature.

We arrived in Nájera after about 2 hours, found a café open and had a cup of coffee and a croissant. Nothing moving in the town since it is May 1 and a holiday here. A pretty town but we did not see anything to make us stop very long.
Out of the town and then we found we were walking with a lot of local people. We decided they were not Peregrinos but just local people out for a day hike on the holiday. They had small backpacks and were in groups. We seemed to be moving faster than them and overtook them quite soon. The other Peregrinos were also moving along at a good speed.

After about another 2 hours we came to the village of Azofra and stopped again for a sandwich and a beer. The sandwich was big so I only ate half of it and will keep the rest for lunch tomorrow.

As we planned today's walk we had found an alternative route from the one in our guidebooks that would avoid a town that did not look very interesting. It would save us a climb and make the walk about 2km shorter. We decided to try it. We found the turning and set off. Since this was not part of the official Camino there were no signs and all we had was a poor map and the compass on my phone. It started fine along farm roads between vineyards and wheat fields. Then it became muddy and messy but we pressed on. It got no worse or better but after about another 2 hours we came out on the service road of a freeway under construction. Since today is a holiday there was no traffic but it was not very nice walking. Finally we ended up on a main road where we had to walk on the shoulder watching out for traffic for about 3 km before we arrived in Santo Domingo and rejoined the Camino. As we got back on the Camino we met the same people we had walked with earlier so no time saved or lost just much more mud on our shoes and trousers!
We made our way into town and stopped at an Albergue run by Cistercian nuns. It is a very old building and our room has just 3 beds, no bunks for a change. It only costs €5 per night. However it is incredibly cold and Joseph, who is still suffering from a bad cold decides to go to a hotel across the street for the night rather than risk getting worse. Werner and I will tough it out. I don't think it can be colder than our bedrooms were as children in England.

It is however too cold everywhere to shower so I decide to take a walk in the town and visit the cathedral. It is interesting especially the legend as to why they keep a rooster in a coop in the cathedral, but since I have forgotten how to add a link to a blog you will have to google Santo Domingo de La Calzada cathedral rooster to get the story. It crowed several times while I was in the cathedral

The rooster is there but I could not get a picture.

The pictures all look like nice weather but the temperature is in the low 40's
I then stopped in a bar with Josef for a beer before meeting again in the lobby of his hotel to start the blog and let the pictures synchronize from the phone over the wifi there, since the nuns at the Albergue don't have wifi.
Walking around town I spotted this Fuente (fountain)

At 6:30 I went to the convent chapel which is in a modern (heated) building behind the old one we are staying in, for vespers. I never saw the nuns who were off to the side but they chanted very nicely and I recorded some of it. I think it was in Latin but could have been Spanish. My blogging skills do not allow me to include a link, but perhaps later. I met Werner for dinner where we had roast lamb as one of the courses of the peregrino menu. Delicious!

Back at the Albergue Werner and I sat in front of a wood fire in what was probably the original dining hall and chatted with other pilgrims. Spanish, Canadian, German I think. Then to bed as usual around 09:30, hoping our sleeping bags will keep us warm tonight.

We learned that this Albergue is only open from May to September so today is the first day since last year. No wonder the thick stone walls are so cold if the building has sat unheated and unused all winter!
The steps up to our room on the second floor were not exactly built for old nuns. I am not surprised they moved out! To get to our room we had to turn left halfway up the first flight. Very easy to miss a step.

I managed to stay warm with my sleeping bag and a blanket but Werner said he was cold and awake all night.
We have now covered 226 km - 140 miles from St Jean
The weather forecast keeps promising warmer weather but it never comes. Tomorrow we have an easier day with only 23 km (14 miles) in our plan.

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